Khartoum: the People

Sudan is the place to come if you want to experience generosity.  You will be blown away.  In my first three days, I was told I would shame people if I paid for my food or my transport.  So if I was ever with someone, I was not allowed to pay.  I'll have to see if I'll be allowed to pay after today!

I can't really say the same thing about amjad (minibus taxi) drivers.  If they know you are American and don't speak Arabic, they'll probably try to give you a higher price.  But my amjad driver today thought I was Sudanese!  Others have said I could pass for an Egyptian or Syrian--what do you know!

I've met so many lovely people.  I've been told many times "tell me if you ever need anything."  I am so blessed to have an incredible boss, Dr. Hala.  I haven't spent much time with her; but everyone has lots of good things to say about her.  She seems very responsible, very passionate about her job (promoting English learning), and very caring for her employees.  She doesn't want us to have to work too much or take on tasks we can't manage.  She started the English Language Institute (ELI) just last year.  Though it's under the University of Khartoum (UofK), it is self-sufficient and receives no money from the government, earning enough through "commercial teaching" to sponsor students and staff to take English courses for just 20 pounds ($4), as I understand.

When we visited a cellphone shop, the owner asked me what I wanted to drink and then went out to buy water for me.  Then he offered to trade cellphones with me; I could have one of his brand-new phones for my old simple Nokia scratched-up cellphone.  This was partly because of his relationship with Rami (who owns part of the cellphone shop, and who was with me that day).  A new cellphone?! Wow.  All I can say is, try to find somewhere that can beat Sudanese hospitality and generosity!

Later in the same day, Rami took me to his grandfather and uncle's house.  Most of the family (several adults and at least five young children) did not speak much English, but they kindly served me a huge meal.  I thought it was for Rami and I to share (a big plate with rice and Chinese greens; a salad with greens, red beet, tomatoes, etc; and two large buns), but it was just for me.  When I'd finished the rice and greens (lovely to eat something so delicious and so Malawian-like!), they brought out lots of beautiful juicy oranges and bananas.  I had to say I couldn't remember the last time I'd had such nice ripe oranges (2006?).  Of course, I couldn't eat everything, but they were very hospitable.  The little boys also practiced their English, asking "how old are you?" and "where are you from?"  I've chosen to say I'm from Malawi when I'm asked; after all, I've lived there for the majority of my life.  Rami's cousin was confused by my scarf over my hair: "Do you know about God?"