tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59492430722574740052024-03-13T02:30:29.770-07:00Mvula KwabasSusannahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09839846692628516106noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-39074825497607965622014-07-06T16:41:00.003-07:002014-07-06T16:41:25.474-07:0050 Things I Love about Malawi<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fifty years ago today, Malawi gained independence from Britain. Fifty years! That's something to celebrate. So here are fifty things I love about Malawi.</span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Scenery</b>--mountains, lakes, plateaus, valleys, Malawi has it all, and it's beautiful</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Greenery--</b>with a rainy season from November to April, the country is usually bursting with green</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ba</b><b>obabs</b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Blue gum trees--</b>they grow fast and tall, harvested just 7 years after planting.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Mt. Mulanje--</b>3000 metres (10,000 feet). It's a Miller favorite pastime to climb Mulanje over a weekend. Just isolated enough so you can feel alone and sometimes get a cabin to yourself, but civilized enough to have discernible paths and rustic cabins.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Lake Malawi</b>--I didn't always appreciate it because we lived so close, it's the number one tourist destination and home to the delicious chambo fish.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Friendliness of the people--</b>there's a reason Malawi is nicknamed "The Warm Heart of Africa"</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Bike taxis. </b>If the town is flat enough, just hop on the rack over a bike's rear wheel, and your taxi rider will maneuver through the sand and around potholes to get you safely, quickly, and cheaply to your destination.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Roadside chip stands--</b>where you can pick up a bag of delicious greasy chips with chip-oil-drizzled cabbage on the side and fried chicken pieces, too (even the chicken head if you want!)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Nsima</b>--the thick, tasteless, porridge-like-but-solid mass that is a staple food to Malawians. Best eaten with salty Chinese cabbage and beef stew.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Malawian tea and the beautiful tea estates its grown on. </b>Of course, it should be served in enormous yellow tin mugs with several tablespoons of Illovo sugar and milk.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Avocadoes </b>cut in long, banana-length slices with salt on top.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Fresh milk straight from the farm--</b>it came with bits of grass still floating around on the top, and we had to pasteurise it, but it was cheaper than the cheapest bag milk, whose freshness was always questionable</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Long-life milk</b>--which was also great, because you could buy a couple litres of milk at a time in the city and always have it on hand</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Perfect climate</b>--cool/cold winters and reasonably warm/hot summers</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Sugarcane--</b>yummy.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Monitor lizards</b>--and that distinctive rustle of dirt and leaves that tells you there's one in the garden</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Hippos and hippo snorts--</b>which we could hear because we lived along the Shire River</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Elephants</b>--African elephants, with their huge ears.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>English signs</b>--how could you resist the "Everybody Complains Hardware Shop"?</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Watching tourists</b>--and guessing where they come from. Our favorites were probably the Afrikaans men in their short shorts, safari shirts, and socks with sandals.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Vegetable markets</b>--where you were never really sure if you were being ripped off and where you were thoroughly ashamed you never learned more Yawo or Chewa.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Chitenje shops</b>--walls of colorful 2-metre-long material to wrap around a woman's waist on top of a skirt or dress.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><i>The Nation</i> and <i>The Daily Times</i></b> and their long-worded, flowery writing.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>The Flames</b>, Malawi's national football team. We once tied Cote D'voire.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Eating fresh guavas </b>with the yellow skin.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Traffic police--</b>the highways have many police checks, sometimes every 20 miles or so. Chatty or serious, it was usually a pleasure. Except when they fined you for going 52 in a 50 kpm zone, or when they stopped me in town after I stalled to make sure I had a license and ask "What's wrong with you?"</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>The flag</b>, and the fact everyone hated when Bingu changed it on a whim, and how Joyce almost immediately reversed it to the original after Bingu died. Now that Peter, Bingu's brother, is in, we'll have to see if he'll leave it.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Peace. </b> I'm so proud that Malawi has never had a war; it just goes against the culture. Instead, Malawi has received immigrants and refugees from Mozambique, Zimbabwe, and Rwanda, Congo, etc., escaping their countries' conflicts.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Free 30-day visitor visas--</b>when you have to pay $100 to enter Zambia, and $75 for Zimbabwe and Mozambique, Malawi seems so welcoming</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>The Independence Arch </b>on the highway leading into Blantyre.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Carlsberg advertisments</b>, "Probably the Best Beer in the World." Such a classic.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>British colonial influence on English</b>, which has mixed me up so that I use half metric, half English and mix British and American spellings</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>SOBO squash</b>, watered down until it's orange-flavored water</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>SOBO ginger ale--</b>even though they stopped making it years ago, it's a consolation that Malawi once had the world's best ginger ale</span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The small size of the country.</span></b></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Joyce Banda--</b>regardless of her politics, she was the second female president in Africa. That's just too cool.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Third-world problems</b>,<b> </b>like poor electricity and water or having no fuel in town for weeks. (I realise that it's terrible for the economy, but I do appreciate that I learned to live with it.) It makes life more interesting and exotic, especially if it's not your responsibility to keep the car topped up. And then it's cool when your dad is already friends with the petrol station attendants, who sometimes send texts to alert him when a tanker is coming to town.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Being in the racial minority. </b>Maybe it's wrong, but I grew up where being different was the norm, where my skin was a statement of my history, and it was strange to finally look like a native when I moved back to the US.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Expats </b>and the instant bond we form. Whether they're from Chile, Nigeria, Japan, Australia, or the Netherlands, we're all in the same boat as foreigners.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Minibuses--</b>your comparatively cheap, exciting, and quick transport option. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Astor peanut butter</b>, never tasted its equal</span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">British colonial architecture</span></b></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Blantyre--</b>my best friends,<b> </b>the hills, the smog, the Mudi river, the market, city centre, everything.</span></li>
<li><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Mangochi--</b>Mom and Dad, the home church we were involved in, the several Muslim calls to prayer we could hear from our house (nobody could sing it like our favorite meuzzin), the shaded main street, the bicycles crowding out the cars, etc., etc.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>The new bridge</b> over the Shire River and the old clock tower at its base, along with memories of the old single-lane bridge, where you'd have to back-up if you reached the middle of the bridge and found another car coming towards you.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Concrete floors--</b>nothing quite like solid floors and brick houses after creaking around in American houses that feel like they're made of plastic.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Freedom</b>,<b> </b>where politics aren't violent and people generally have freedom of speech and religion.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>The mix of Chewa and English people use</b>, which can only happen when a fair portion of the population is bilingual. Most Americans wouldn't have another language to mix English with and most Sudanese weren't comfortable enough with English to mix it with Arabic.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>The people, of course.</b> Our neighbor who admonished me to drive defensively and sent me tea when I was in Sudan. The vegetable-man who brought vegetables each week because Mom can't get to the market. The driving instructors at my driving school. Our gardener of nearly 13 years and nightwatchman of nearly 11 years. And many many others.</span></span></li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Malawi</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOKIYMCMKOlG9LRG_wgVTHcYsDU8hEPTcyNi6d9XV-jWlMXTEZ9K5m7m0CM4I-mUFAnDED4lXpb-vxVsBXLjEZJAWoELNnGV3QUekyPaeC2v78ixZbsxjzTjSHbkIzjRTs-3qu9etIfeok/s1600/IMG_2972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOKIYMCMKOlG9LRG_wgVTHcYsDU8hEPTcyNi6d9XV-jWlMXTEZ9K5m7m0CM4I-mUFAnDED4lXpb-vxVsBXLjEZJAWoELNnGV3QUekyPaeC2v78ixZbsxjzTjSHbkIzjRTs-3qu9etIfeok/s1600/IMG_2972.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea estates below Mt Mulanje</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipwEuprBUlZruGkB5j5j-7E8JpdXRbEzUnXDMppOFEwfaucpIWvf6JwiFFjy8s37jNVuZVzkxgJ9EQmcPY8JPuQ48jAM5hSO3n3ZkjbNQN6WaScj9BQLaB-BrHknh7OBxajdgj3pwHTd7m/s1600/town.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipwEuprBUlZruGkB5j5j-7E8JpdXRbEzUnXDMppOFEwfaucpIWvf6JwiFFjy8s37jNVuZVzkxgJ9EQmcPY8JPuQ48jAM5hSO3n3ZkjbNQN6WaScj9BQLaB-BrHknh7OBxajdgj3pwHTd7m/s1600/town.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mangochi, as seen from a nearby hill. You can see the Japanese bridge on the left.</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-4126531337200505722014-04-30T08:50:00.001-07:002014-04-30T08:50:52.377-07:00Malawi Elections<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hey, let's talk Malawi presidential elections, which are only 3 weeks away!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peter wa Mutharika</td></tr>
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There are <a href="http://www.nyasatimes.com/2014/04/25/banda-chakwera-muluzi-mutharika-qualify-but-prevailing-political-cultures-should-set-them-apart/">four major contenders</a>, including Joyce Banda, the incumbent, for PP (People's Party). MCP (Malawi Congress Party), which is the party that ruled Malawi from independence in 1964 until the first multiparty elections in 1994, is represented by Dr Chakwera. UDF (United Democratic Front) is represented by Atupele Muluzi, son of former president Bakili Muluzi (1994-2004). And DPP (Democratic Progressive Party) is represented by Peter wa Mutharika, brother of the late president Bingu, who died of a heart attack while in office.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKU9a5NI6vkTkT7EdnwZIEDE5EGrpY2AJDDc924cKDTbGMHu9nHWEnb6Cw2jUvPJeQe-Y0-br6BarwLAfhbWonhowEhc9kvOtD13tOhA4ENM-BabaF3LXXaWjIyhZC-yT4_E_74hyphenhyphent3uA/s1600/615px-Joyce_Banda_Department_for_International_Development_photo_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKU9a5NI6vkTkT7EdnwZIEDE5EGrpY2AJDDc924cKDTbGMHu9nHWEnb6Cw2jUvPJeQe-Y0-br6BarwLAfhbWonhowEhc9kvOtD13tOhA4ENM-BabaF3LXXaWjIyhZC-yT4_E_74hyphenhyphent3uA/s1600/615px-Joyce_Banda_Department_for_International_Development_photo_crop.jpg" height="195" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">President Joyce Banda.<br />
(Lindsay Mgbor,<br />
Dept. International Development)</td></tr>
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It's an interesting election. Normally I'd expect the incumbent to win, but this time the incumbent is a woman who succeeded to office through Bingu's death, not election. I'm interested to see if Malawi has confidence in a female president. Afterall, Joyce Banda is only the second female president in the entire continent.<br />
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Also, this is the first election with televised debates. How cool is that! I only wish I could find them online. In any case, President Banda decided she was "too busy" with her campaign schedule to participate.<br />
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They say our last elections (2009) were the second most peaceful in Africa. I don't actually know where I heard that, but it seems plausible. I was there at the time, and election day passed just like any other day. Either way, you can join Malawi today in a <a href="http://www.nyasatimes.com/2014/04/25/malawi-to-pray-for-peaceful-elections-all-candidates-invited/">day of prayer</a> for peaceful elections, led by several Muslim organisations and Protestant churches.</div>
Susannahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09839846692628516106noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-45024257834915242702013-03-31T07:43:00.000-07:002013-03-31T07:43:03.649-07:00100 Useful Arabic Words in Sudan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<i style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">N</i><i style="line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ote: This post is part of a series on what Khartoum is like. It is intended for anyone coming to Sudan who wants to learn more and get advice on various topics before travelling here, and anyone else interested.</span></i><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></i><span style="line-height: 18px;">I'm so grateful to my Sudanese colleagues and friends who have so patiently helped me learn their language and given me encouragement even when I didn't make a lot of progress. I'm especially grateful for their help because I started from scratch, without the help of books, etc., and they brought me from knowing nothing to where I am now (although I'm not sure where that is).</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span><span style="line-height: 18px;">Because I originally learned from friends instead of from books, I got to learn words that were immediately practical for me. Here are 100 words I find useful and may be useful for anyone when first arriving in Sudan. I am indebted to my dear Arabic teacher for graciously reviewing them. (These words are in the Sudanese accent.)</span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Numbers<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Itneen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Talata<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arba3a*<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Khamsa<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">6<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sitta<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">7<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sab3a<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">8<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tamanya<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">9<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tis3a<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">10<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3ashara<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">11<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hidasher<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Itnasher<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Greetings<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Peace to you<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Assalam alaikum<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And to you, peace<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wa alaikum assalam<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How are you? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kaif? <o:p></o:p></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(literally: how)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’m great<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tamaam<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’m fine<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kwayis/kwaysa<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[I’m well] praise to God<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Alhamdulillah<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fantastic/100%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Meya meya<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Common Verbs<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I am going<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td><td style="border-bottom-color: black; border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-right-color: black; border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid none; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 261.9pt;" valign="top" width="349"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mashi/masha<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I want<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dayer/dayra<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You said<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Gulta/gulti<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I thought<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fakarta<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I ate<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Akalta<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We live<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sakneen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3indi<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Give (me)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Jeeb/Jeebi (first to males, second to females)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I work at<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shagala fi<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yes/No<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yes<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Aiwa</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">No<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">La<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not (negation)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ma<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pronouns<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ana<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">He<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hua<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">She<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hia<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">They<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hum<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nihna<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You, you plural<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Inta/inti, intu<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Question Words<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shinu?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Where?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wain?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Metain?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Who?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Minu?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How much?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bi Kam?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kaif?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Prepositions<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fi<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">M3a, Be<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Min<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Without</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Inside<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Juwa<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Outside<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Barrah<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beside<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Janb<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Gabli<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ba3ad<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Directions</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Right<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yameen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Left<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shamal<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Straight/directly<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tawali<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Measures of Time<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Minute<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dageega<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hour<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sa3a<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Youm<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Month<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shahar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Year<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sana<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Time<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Zaman<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Days of the Week<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sunday<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Youm alahad<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Monday<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Youm alitneen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tuesday<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Youm attalata<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wednesday<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Youm alarbi3a<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thursday<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Youm alkhamees<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Friday<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Youm aljom3a<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Saturday<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Youm assabit<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nouns<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Street<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shari3<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">House<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bayt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">University<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Jam3a<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Church<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kaneesa<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Galam<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Water<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Moya<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Food<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Akil<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tea and Related Words<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tea<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shai<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Coffee<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Jabanah, gahwa<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sugar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suker<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Milk<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Laban<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 spoonful, 2 spoonfuls<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mal3aga, mal3agteen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td colspan="2" style="border-bottom-color: black; border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: black; border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: black; border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 423.9pt;" valign="top" width="565"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Adjectives, Adverbs<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A little<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shwaya<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A lot<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kateer<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Far<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ba3eed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Near<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td><td style="border-bottom-color: black; border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-right-color: black; border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid none; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 261.9pt;" valign="top" width="349"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Gareeb<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Full (I’m full)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td><td style="border-bottom-color: black; border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-right-color: black; border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid none; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 261.9pt;" valign="top" width="349"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shab3aan/shab3aana<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="border-bottom-color: black; border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: black; border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: black; border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 2.25in;" valign="top" width="216"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hot (I'm hot)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sakhin/sakhna<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here, there<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hina, hinak<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bas</span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Al’an, hassa<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Other Words<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cellphone<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Telephone, mobile<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cellphone credit<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Raseed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cellphone charger<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shahin<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Taxi that is a mini minibus<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Amjad<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Money<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Guroosh<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Change (as in coins)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fakka<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">wa</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But</span></div>
</td><td style="border-bottom-color: black; border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-right-color: black; border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid none; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 261.9pt;" valign="top" width="349"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lakin</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bread</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Juice</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Congratulations</span></div>
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<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span><span style="line-height: 18px;">Of course this list is nowhere near complete, nor do I pretend these are the 100 most useful words.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">As you can see, I chose different tenses for the verbs; those are the tenses that I use the most with those particular verbs. Also note that sometimes there are two forms of the verb given; the first is for males and the second for females. The same goes for pronouns and some adjectives.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">You will find that the days of the week correspond closely to numbers; months are similar--(shahar wahid, shahar itneen, etc.).</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">With these 100 words you can make so many combinations to get across what you are trying to say (even though your grammar may be atrocious). Here are some examples, with the English first, Arabic second, sometimes with comments following:</span></span><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Just a minute--Degiga bas (minute just)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Is there juice?--Fi 3seer farowla? "Fi" is a great word; it means "there is, there are," but can also be used with a different intonation to mean "is there? are there?" It also means "in."</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">There isn't--Ma fi. "Ma" can also be used it before verbs to mean "don't/doesn't."</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">I want tea (with milk), without sugar, and he wants coffee with one sugar--Ana dayra shai be leben, bedun sukr, wa hua dayr jebinah, sukr malaga.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">We are going to Street _____, after the university. How much?--Nihna masheen Shar3 _____, bad jam3a. Bikam?</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Where are you from? I am from America--Inti min wen? Ana min Amrika.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Where are you going?--Masha wen?</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">It's not far, it's near--"Ma baeed, gareeb."</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">I want credit, 5 pounds Sudani; I have 10, do you have change?--Ana dayra raseet, khamsa Sudani; 3nde 3shara, 3ndak faka?</span></span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Now that I review this list I forgot a shocking number of very important words. I guess that means I might have to write another post about this again. If you speak Arabic or you're learning Arabic in Sudan and found this list skips some words you find useful, please leave a comment.</span></span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<span style="line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*I use the 3 here to symbolise the "ayin" sound. You can hear how this sounds by listening to this clip. If you can't pronounce it, replace with an 'a' sound as in 'cat.'</span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<i style="line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(For this series of posts, I would really like to get input from the Sudanese to be as accurate as possible. Please comment if I wrote something that is only partly true or could be misunderstood or is just obviously wrong. Thanks!)</span></i></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-42677752121629329652013-03-25T13:07:00.001-07:002013-03-28T04:52:32.135-07:00Cellphones and Internet in Sudan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<i style="background-color: #fefdfa; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Note: This post is part of a series on what Khartoum is like. It is intended for anyone coming to Sudan who wants to learn more and get advice on various topics before travelling here, and anyone else interested.</i><br />
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When I arrived, there were three things on my mind to accomplish immediately: get a sim card and credit, get internet, and exchange money. I'll talk about the first two here.</div>
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<b>Cell Phones</b></div>
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There are three major telecommunication companies in Sudan: Zain, Sudani, and MTN. Supposedly they each have their pros and cons; Zain provides better rural coverage, Sudani is cheaper, and MTN has the cheapest international calls. So as long as you won't be calling home every day or backpacking through the desert while camel-spotting, Sudani is probably the best option.</div>
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Cell phone service is quite simple: just buy a sim card and top-up credit and you're ready to go. That is, unless you have an unlocked phone. If your phone is locked, you can either buy a cheap phone in the market ($30) or pay someone to unlock your phone.</div>
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You can buy a sim card from a vendor in any market in Khartoum or at bus stations. You can buy credit in most shops and at many single-stand vendors all over the city. If you're not sure how to use top-up cards or can't understand the Arabic instructions, you can always ask the vendor to enter it for you the first few times. Sometimes the credit comes as a scratch card, sometimes as a receipt, and sometimes the vendor will literally send you credit from his phone (which costs an extra 2 cents).</div>
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Note: cell phones are called telephones or mobiles here, so if you talk about cell phones, you will get blank stares.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>Internet</b></div>
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The best internet is provided by Sudani. I actually read that the Swedish ambassador said Sudan has the best internet in all of Africa. Whether or not that's true, Sudani provides reliable, reasonably fast service at a very affordable rate.</div>
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You can buy two types of internet dongles from Sudani: one that takes unlimited data bundles and one that takes limited. The limited dongle is enabled to have faster service, so if speed is important to you, this is a good option. However, the unlimited dongle comes free with a 3-month unlimited bundle at about $30, an incredible bargain.</div>
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The internet is not fast enough to watch videos or listen to audio uninterrupted; you will probably have to wait three or four times as long for it to load. However, I find that at certain times of the day (1 am to 1 pm), the internet is quicker, with the best time between 6 and 8 am, when download speed exceeds video-play speed, sometimes by two or three times.</div>
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<i>(For this series of posts, I would really like to get input from the Sudanese to be as accurate as possible. Please comment if I wrote something that is only partly true or could be misunderstood or is just obviously wrong. Thanks!)</i></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-31464815257803056932013-03-24T13:39:00.000-07:002013-03-25T01:05:22.831-07:00Women's Clothes in Sudan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>(For this series of posts, I would really like to get input from the Sudanese to be as accurate as possible. Please comment if I wrote something that is only partly true or could be misunderstood or is just obviously wrong. Thanks!)</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<i>Note: This post is part of a series on what Khartoum is like. It is intended for anyone coming to Sudan who wants to learn more and get advice on various topics before travelling here, and anyone else interested.</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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When I came to Sudan I was told to bring clothes that would cover much of my skin--long skirts, at-least-elbow-length high-necked shirts, etc.). But despite this foreknowledge and having grown up donning a skirt whenever I exited our compound, I was surprised once I arrived here and saw for myself how stringent the (spoken or unspoken) rules were, especially for Sudanese women. Most women in Khartoum (maybe 95%) cover themselves from ankle to wrist, and a majority (maybe 80%) cover their heads up to the chin and forehead.</div>
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Of course this was new to me, but I realized right away how beautiful Sudanese style is. Women coordinate their colors in such a pretty way. (I would have more pictures to show that, except that not all women allow their pictures online--hence Facebook accounts with models or cartoon characters as profile pictures.)</div>
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In general, I've noticed three main styles of dress in Khartoum: Sudanese, Saudi, and Western. The traditional Sudanese garment is called a tobe--a long length of cloth wrapped around the waist and shoulders and draped over the head, similar to an Indian sari. Tobes are worn with a skirt and shirt underneath and often a hijab pinned tight underneath, too.</div>
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In general, girls don't wear tobes or start wearing them upon marriage, although single women do wear them. In Khartoum, for the most part, only older women wear them habitually while younger women wear them for special occasions, such as weddings.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX4HTrmezv3y9eEd4YKXRrSRCeLn6HK7fU8CrmDTNA_0AfkCxkha1dmFIkjNU8ReuepURJP9lKjZ1pFiKaiAdX57W8CVu0dJxYWIbvanjOHt0q8bDS-x880JSqVZlObwAK1jAFHehJlJo/s1600/IMG_0085+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX4HTrmezv3y9eEd4YKXRrSRCeLn6HK7fU8CrmDTNA_0AfkCxkha1dmFIkjNU8ReuepURJP9lKjZ1pFiKaiAdX57W8CVu0dJxYWIbvanjOHt0q8bDS-x880JSqVZlObwAK1jAFHehJlJo/s320/IMG_0085+-+Copy.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My friend sports a lovely green tobe and matching yellow hijab. I edited this picture after it was first posted to keep my friend's face offline. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In my opinion, tobes are really pretty but really impractical. A woman wearing a tobe seems to be forever adjusting it, and they always seem to fall completely off when a woman gets off a bus.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9sl_M06cVfRkFwqG6ZXh5teffYgxl7qtvvKSW3k169bygutxMXLhqf1jgn1CrEDQuYpMTDQLghyF7hH6dnMgcirJA7prug6To84dhzhhHUjQq5K41dlQq0QVLm2zxCdweGSA9zu0MngI/s1600/IMG_0090+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9sl_M06cVfRkFwqG6ZXh5teffYgxl7qtvvKSW3k169bygutxMXLhqf1jgn1CrEDQuYpMTDQLghyF7hH6dnMgcirJA7prug6To84dhzhhHUjQq5K41dlQq0QVLm2zxCdweGSA9zu0MngI/s320/IMG_0090+-+Copy.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 sisters: Western, Saudi abaya, Sudanese tobe</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Some Sudanese women wear the Saudi abaya--an enormously wide dress of generally thin, shiny material with embroidered patterns. Under this, also, Sudanese women wear a shirt and skirt or trousers. Perhaps this is because the abaya is made of such thin cloth. Some women wear abayas for religious reasons (and sometimes this is accompanied by the face-covering niqab, stockings over feet, and handgloves--though handgloves are worn more often to protect from a tan than for religion). Others wear the abaya because of its aesthetics.<br />
<br />
Finally, most women in Khartoum dress in Western clothes, (that is, I assume the clothes are originally from the West, but does not mean they dress like Westerners) such as an ankle-length denim skirts, a long-sleeved shirt, another top layered over that, and a hijab crowning the outfit. The more daring women wear trousers with long shirts/dresses, that come down to their knee, or at least to upper thigh.<br />
<br />
For women thinking of visiting Sudan, you might feel like you have to buy an entirely new wardrobe. It's pretty much true. You can bend the unspoken rules, and as a foreigner, you can get away with a lot more than the Sudanese, but here are some recommendations on what to get before coming to Sudan.<br />
<br />
Things I'm glad I brought/wish I had:<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>long-sleeved shirts</li>
<li>undershirts with high necks that you can wear under shirts with low necks</li>
<li>tank tops/spaghetti straps that you can layer on top of other shirts</li>
<li>those sleevey things that are basically a set of long sleeves to wear on top of a tank top--I'm not sure what they're called</li>
<li>long skirts--especially denim or plain color to match with anything (check charity/thrift shops, or you can buy them in markets in Khartoum)</li>
<li>at least one pair of jeans</li>
<li>dress pants</li>
<li>if you plan to wear hijab, come with one or two and buy most after you arrive as they are much cheaper here.</li>
<li>(But also bring some normal clothes because you'll want to wear shorts and t-shirts while in your own house or jeans at an expat party.)</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
Guidelines:<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Shirts: elbow-length to wrist-length, no cleavage, long enough so there's never skin showing between your skirt and shirt, not skin-tight.</li>
<li>Skirts: preferably ankle-length (and the so-long-that-I'm-sweeping-the-entire-pavement-around-me length is in style in Sudan) but at least longer than midcalf, not skin-tight. Slits are okay to mid-calf, but are preferably worn with leggings.</li>
<li>Trousers: not skin-tight, with a longer shirt or dress that preferably covers your bottom.</li>
</ul>
<div>
All those guidelines will feel impossible to keep all the time, and you don't have to. When you come to Sudan, you'll figure out what you're comfortable with and what level of restriction drives you bonkers. I break the "rules" regularly and so do all the other volunteers, but they'res good guideline to start from.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
And I'm sorry this got to be 5 pages long and as technical as a Pentagon plan-book to keep spiders from the President's morning coffee.</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-147245551637192962013-03-14T13:58:00.004-07:002013-03-14T13:59:40.116-07:00How the President Died<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well, it's time to focus on the news back home today, 'back home' referring to Malawi this time. Last week, news outlets in Malawi released an investigative commission's <a href="http://www.nyasatimes.com/2013/03/07/malawi-full-inquiry-report-on-bingu-wa-mutharikas-death/">full report</a> on former President Bingu wa Mutharika's death on April 5 last year.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I took a look at part of it today--starting in chapter 2 "Evidence Taken Regarding the Death of the President." It was actually a lot more readable than I had anticipated, but I only read up to the part where he was first declared him dead, which I will include here for your interest:</span><br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mrs. Stella Warren testified to the Commission that at the time she went into the ambulance where the President was, she noticed that "<b><i>the President was dead</i></b>". Dr. Isyu Mwakasungula also testified that at the time that they were carrying the President onto the trolley, he was motionless and there was no response of any sort from him. His eyes were closed. In Dr. Mwakasungula's opinion it gave the impression that the President was critically ill or unconscious or was dead.</span></blockquote>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But because you probably don't want to read the entire report, I will give a summary of the section I read and some highlights. Summary: the President was meeting an MP when suddenly he had a heart attack; he was soon put in an ambulance and driven to the hospital, but he apparently died on the way.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the course of events, there were several unfortunate things noted in the report which prevented the President from getting the best care:</span><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The President's doctor, when called upon the President's collapse, did not have the President's emergency aid kit with him. It was at his house.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An ambulance was not ready immediately. The unconscious President was carried onto the elevator at the State House and waited there for a car to be found.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The President's doctor was not able to secure his airway because he was too weak to lift him: </span></li>
</ul>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The
Commission was informed that about November 2011, Dr. Namarika was involved in
a road accident on his way to Ndata Farm House, the President’s private
residence in Thyolo. Following the accident, Dr. Namarika suffered a
dislocation of his left arm and was undergoing physiotherapy at the time of the
President’s collapse. Dr. Namarika told the Commission that he could not
effectively use his left arm because it had very limited movement. The
Commission established that the doctor could not successfully secure the airway
at the time of the President’s collapse because for him to do that he had to
intubate the President. He could not intubate the President because for him to
do that, he had to elevate the President to get the path to the neck. The
doctor could not manage to do that because of the limitation that he had in the
use of his arm and that, in his own words, “the President was so big.”</span></li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisUrYQpdZKPGfTZPZTnflPpQmkOFxHhXeg1SX4HW5XUGBB9eT0aP7LFyCqQ9DOi3qxQHZ79riHs7hNSlDF83T-k0NQzzjGvJPSfIS3F-z8hMCVplhbHCLlEAAsnfpxoCu1FAS8hpQkwOg/s1600/Bingu_wa_Mutharika_with_Obamas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisUrYQpdZKPGfTZPZTnflPpQmkOFxHhXeg1SX4HW5XUGBB9eT0aP7LFyCqQ9DOi3qxQHZ79riHs7hNSlDF83T-k0NQzzjGvJPSfIS3F-z8hMCVplhbHCLlEAAsnfpxoCu1FAS8hpQkwOg/s320/Bingu_wa_Mutharika_with_Obamas.jpg" width="261" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">President Bingu wa Mutharika with the Obamas</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While in the ambulance, someone tried to call Kamuzu Central Hospital to alert them that the President was coming, but none of their numbers worked. Out of ten "switchboard numbers," only two were working, but the calls did not go through.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When the ambulance arrived at the hospital, it appeared that the President was dead, so, though disatisfactory, it was inconsequential that some emergency drugs were not available in the ICU and ICU staff had to be dispatched to go find them, whether in or outside the hospital.</span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was here that I stopped reading and started blogging, later cooking a bowl of grits (humbles me to admit that) and settling down to enjoy it while finishing up this post. In going back over the report to write this, I read further that the President's physician insisted the medical staff continue CPR for an hour, despite the President's apparent death and the staff's complaints of being tired. With such extensive CPR, the President's ribs were broken.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The report also contains chapters on how the President was subsequently flown to South Africa (at the time, those of us who had heard that the President may have died were told he was in critical condition and seeking further treatment in South Africa), the brief power struggle between the President's political party (DPP) and that of the then Vice President Joyce Banda (PP) over the constitutionality of the Vice President succeeding when she and the President had been at odds and she had recently left his party and created her own, and the infamous prophecy of a Nigerian cleric that an African president would die.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Scrolling past those sure-to-be-fascinating topics, I sampled a few of the most recent comments posted on <a href="http://www.nyasatimes.com/">Nyasa Times</a>. One commentater, "Mlomwe Original," had a personal message in capital letters for many of the principal characters:</span></div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">President's physician: "How could he keep the first aid kit of the president at his residence....STUPID DOCTOR."</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ICU staff: "I understand from the report that they...even fractured the some ribs of the patient,...I can assume that most patient in ICU do not come have been dying the same way because you end up breaking their ribs thereby aggravating their condition....YOU SHOULD ALSO BE CAUTIONED OR BE SENT TO REFRESHER COURSE."</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">MP present during heart attack: "from the report I don't see you at KCH [hospital], are u a real Malawian Mother, YOU ARE NOT FIT TO BE AN MP."</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Midnight Five" (presumably those who met secretly to try to keep the then Vice President from succeeding): I WILL NEVER NEVER EVER FORGIVE YOU AND I EVEN HATE TO HEAR YOUR NAMES>WHY ARE YOU STILL WALKING FREE....STUPID.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cabinet (on division over succession): "do you know what you could have caused to the Malawi nation????? By now we could could have have in civil war. Two camps could have emerged, one for your camp and one for the then VP Mrs Banda, and this could have escalated to something grave.....as long as I live YOU WILL NEVER SEE MY VOTE....FROM NOW ON i WILL DECAMPAIGN YOU USING ANY MEANS I WILL USE."</span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A commentater called "Chris" bemoaned the lack of patriotism in the President's care:</span></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">why was there no deputy
doctor? The on call doctor had a bad arm. Are we serious? He was not treated as
a president and that pains me. No matter who is in office, no matter the party
affilation; let us serve our presidents with all our heart. If this was a more
patriotic country (e.g the USA) that doctor would have found the strength to
use his other arm and perform CPR and intebate the President. Im so sad! They
did not have a gurney to move the president to the ambulance? Seriously! They
were carrying him. How sad is that. That alone could have worsened his state.
Im so sad. Malwi needs a revival. We need to stop only thinking about
ourselves. I really can’t believe it.</span></blockquote>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One commentator, "4kwacha," complained about the typos and the President's weight: "<span style="line-height: 115%;">Too many typos in
this report, is this the quality of government documents?</span><span style="line-height: 115%;">.... the so called medical personnel</span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">should encourage the president to eat healthy
diets and exercise (Bingu was also obese as stated in the report)."</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
Another commentater, "Clement Njunga," said exactly what you are probably thinking after reading this long blog post: "It has taken me 5days to complete reading the whole report. I am buffled and tung tied!"</span></div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-45746576374612370972012-07-06T15:06:00.001-07:002012-07-08T11:01:13.330-07:00Mulungu Dalitsa Malawi, Warm Heart of Africa!Happy Independence Day! And I'm not two days late because I'm referring to Malawi, which is 48 years old today!<br />
<br />
On July 6, 1964, Malawi went from being a colony of Great Britian to a fully-independent member of the Commonwealth without so much as a single shot fired. In fact, the government was basically being run by a Malawian for several years before.<br />
<br />
But let me back up. Malawi's people are mostly made up of about a dozen tribes. The major tribes, Chewa, Ngoni, Yawo, and Lomwe are all immigrants (isn't the whole world?). The Chewa come from Congo, the Ngoni from South Africa, the Yawo from Mozambique (either that or they are related to the Zulu from South Africa), and the Lomwe from Mozambique. Back in the day, Malawians traded with the Portuguese and Arabs. They first met the British through David Livingstone, after whose birthplace, our "commercial capital," Blantyre, is named.<br />
<br />
In the late 1800s, the British claimed Malawi as theirs and called it British Central Africa.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyrD9KtyNNnCoQtKWPqepX91uQP9KbVZqqqGqXe9PYTMqR0GpnEUUL_kPtztj_XMsMBT7vUCco8zCowsdoYefEwMHp0LSmsy7iXelYfZrXmmQGMvoWAxGNV7ljPZPQruI4a_BGl7dO9A/s1600/Stamp_British_Central_Africa_1897_6p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyrD9KtyNNnCoQtKWPqepX91uQP9KbVZqqqGqXe9PYTMqR0GpnEUUL_kPtztj_XMsMBT7vUCco8zCowsdoYefEwMHp0LSmsy7iXelYfZrXmmQGMvoWAxGNV7ljPZPQruI4a_BGl7dO9A/s320/Stamp_British_Central_Africa_1897_6p.jpg" width="268" /></a><br />
They later changed it to Nyasaland, adopting the Yawo word for lake. In case you didn't know, Malawi is home to the third largest lake in Africa, which is probably what we're best known for, after being the birthplace of Madonna's kids, and the country that jailed homosexuals. Maybe soon we'll become famous for our female president?<br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsN29YVSjFESDu1GlqS46ToWtoesXYhzxBuQYBRDCtjxwmxt_jDYZ9ot_xwlbE_cbfqHuSBB_41nPdGkHeZaV2Vy0HbxKW7GJKVaH3xjinYvR_8AsIm1du7SZQko26ZCq6vQ0u9s5df4/s1600/800px-Flag_of_Nyasaland.svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsN29YVSjFESDu1GlqS46ToWtoesXYhzxBuQYBRDCtjxwmxt_jDYZ9ot_xwlbE_cbfqHuSBB_41nPdGkHeZaV2Vy0HbxKW7GJKVaH3xjinYvR_8AsIm1du7SZQko26ZCq6vQ0u9s5df4/s320/800px-Flag_of_Nyasaland.svg.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nyasaland flag of Malawi during colonial days</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Back to history, there was this Malawian who'd been educated in the US who decided to return to Malawi in 1958, calling for independence. He was kind of popular, so the British put him in jail in Zimbabwe for a year. But when they released him, they engaged him in talks, and before you knew it, he was the prime minister and the de facto leader of the country. When the British agreed to make Malawi fully independent, he was voted in as the president.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhTgg6aIJ15bbt_mJ9ULcCz2RTyRBbhikfFhJycIUXCqJwy2fYv-ZbMMJxyB-RCZiyDFUtqn_qh6RHgIiW7YVEhMkO-OxcG1gVMVA6M0d7I0HVPkpQPwx_MnHuLQOQYefieZQTq3mEyPw/s1600/800px-Flag_of_Malawi.svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhTgg6aIJ15bbt_mJ9ULcCz2RTyRBbhikfFhJycIUXCqJwy2fYv-ZbMMJxyB-RCZiyDFUtqn_qh6RHgIiW7YVEhMkO-OxcG1gVMVA6M0d7I0HVPkpQPwx_MnHuLQOQYefieZQTq3mEyPw/s320/800px-Flag_of_Malawi.svg.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with independence, we adopted the 'rising sun' flag</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So who was this guy? His Excellency the Life President Ngwazi Dr. H. Kamuzu Banda as he came to be called. Our first Malawian president was in power for 30 years, from 1964-1994. The Banda years intrigue me. He was somewhat authoritarian and conservative. News, movies, and books were censored, TV was banned, men and women had to observe dress codes (short hair for men, skirts for women) when entering the country, etc. And just like the US forcibly moved Native Americans west in the 1830s, Banda made all Indians leave their homes and businesses in small towns and move to designated cities. It was a time of order and oppression. At least that's what I've gathered.<br />
<br />
In 1993, there was a referendum about allowing multi-party elections, and Malawians voted for choice. Consequently, HETLPNDHKB (that is to say, President Banda) lost the election in 1994 to Bakili Muluzi. The new constitution limited presidents to two (5 year) terms, so Bakili Muluzi, though he talked of a third term, was out after 10 years. My family moved to Malawi in these years. I'll remember him for saying he was the best beggar in the world because he knew how to get money from donor countries.<br />
<br />
And then Muluzi's "successor," Bingu wa Mutharika won the 2004 election.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZobRGi1xeqzPZ8AdoDvCqI4WQfrthJRGW8D9CQMJufTEhRr8GZ-jFiFGpZHHX12RfiY3ZOsAw1Oz-C0CejKgiLv_zmz_fq-npzoUROATdFxqEtLhx_O3Fz01d37rO68wy7gtzhkHWq8/s1600/Mutharika_at_Met.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZobRGi1xeqzPZ8AdoDvCqI4WQfrthJRGW8D9CQMJufTEhRr8GZ-jFiFGpZHHX12RfiY3ZOsAw1Oz-C0CejKgiLv_zmz_fq-npzoUROATdFxqEtLhx_O3Fz01d37rO68wy7gtzhkHWq8/s320/Mutharika_at_Met.jpg" width="250" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bingu (an edited picture between Michelle and Barack Obama)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Bingu created his own party less than a year after taking office. He easily won re-election in 2009, but didn't survive his full term, dying of a sudden heart attack 3 months ago. I'll remember him for the fuel crisis that dominated his last year and for changing the flag to this:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEoQUFJnAoQYIUCLgxkiknG1N4p-bMcIoWmlPa5ZhyphenhyphenpDwzxuwQh7jA_pJpfwyXHMYtmv8Q55zaVIk4ctHLZeHeXRZvCa-tuE2TZLFK8vnxaoNIyGnzAIWHMquI5khZVwiFDaAk4Wl85cc/s1600/800px-Flag_of_Malawi_(2010-2012).svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEoQUFJnAoQYIUCLgxkiknG1N4p-bMcIoWmlPa5ZhyphenhyphenpDwzxuwQh7jA_pJpfwyXHMYtmv8Q55zaVIk4ctHLZeHeXRZvCa-tuE2TZLFK8vnxaoNIyGnzAIWHMquI5khZVwiFDaAk4Wl85cc/s320/800px-Flag_of_Malawi_(2010-2012).svg.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bingu's 'full sun' flag, supposedly denoting that we are a fully-developed country</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Which leads me to Joyce Banda (or JB, for short), his vice prez, who became president on his death. Being the first female president in Southern Africa, she's made waves, also because she immediately reversed a lot of the late Bingu's decisions, including changing the flag back to the rising sun image.<br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span><br />
So what's Malawi like? Our population is about 15 million (2 million more than Zambia, 68% of Australia's population, 23% of France's population). So we have a lot of people, which I like to think is because Malawi is so peaceful that it attracted people coming from wars (Mozambique Civil War) or hotspots like Zimbabwe. Our 2009 elections were called the second most peaceful in Africa; I can't remember who said that, but I remember hearing it distinctly.<br />
<br />
Malawians are really friendly people, so much so that Malawi is nicknamed the "Warm Heart of Africa." And Malawi is a free country. Freedom is relative, of course, but living in a country with less freedom makes me appreciate so much more the freedom I enjoyed in Malawi.<br />
<br />
Most importantly, of course, Malawi is home. At least, I think it is. God bless Malawi! <i>Mulungu dalitsa Malawi</i>!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCESxtZXhEyxMuFMwFX0c-OgW-dpxnTR-Z6s4OghgI5xORBcWFzMPZS7i1iFjbcVG7fIy_Ta1IwT2L2uW8zWwlUaSjST855CFhJKjro7KZhK58YZztUvWFRGct45CWNILQThV-5kutm4/s1600/P5140940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCESxtZXhEyxMuFMwFX0c-OgW-dpxnTR-Z6s4OghgI5xORBcWFzMPZS7i1iFjbcVG7fIy_Ta1IwT2L2uW8zWwlUaSjST855CFhJKjro7KZhK58YZztUvWFRGct45CWNILQThV-5kutm4/s400/P5140940.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zomba, I think</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuvy4wYwFfdT-um6cHah91eeml8C5kSL6KGIcCgupOtHswk6w2ZtBXMv8SOh0ky6kT4rWISDDOPKKhrs7EgXjo0qQ-MuhbllwUmd_3cZG4OtXfNPMz8b5nGa07sAnvHc5_726XTsFf9cY/s1600/P4070479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuvy4wYwFfdT-um6cHah91eeml8C5kSL6KGIcCgupOtHswk6w2ZtBXMv8SOh0ky6kT4rWISDDOPKKhrs7EgXjo0qQ-MuhbllwUmd_3cZG4OtXfNPMz8b5nGa07sAnvHc5_726XTsFf9cY/s400/P4070479.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blantyre-Zomba road, I think</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0iZy0FmgsMsLvWqucxXwKtaPzRiNFCUD3BauEZ85x0BRmSsJKszcldu62JdA9usKJYfzAVqm1OvN2hf0RnqBE8bY0RkZXIAJaqjshFmjh8HQrHMPfHsXNSBeb-SstDBXU4g2kjl6kuw/s1600/P5140930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0iZy0FmgsMsLvWqucxXwKtaPzRiNFCUD3BauEZ85x0BRmSsJKszcldu62JdA9usKJYfzAVqm1OvN2hf0RnqBE8bY0RkZXIAJaqjshFmjh8HQrHMPfHsXNSBeb-SstDBXU4g2kjl6kuw/s400/P5140930.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">most Malawians cook over wood-fires</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicE6xaRgjWOlUg6NJb-T7EMPquRBuw7iUhlcGIl5b3z87rqp4g45HquTL_lyPuTHgNIxRiup7ki2S1fa9sv_mVJ_xhPQKtjOhtVS-6PjSyYY_czCluV0nXMe9pbtmRn8FW2HxFyqlTEGY/s1600/P1010008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicE6xaRgjWOlUg6NJb-T7EMPquRBuw7iUhlcGIl5b3z87rqp4g45HquTL_lyPuTHgNIxRiup7ki2S1fa9sv_mVJ_xhPQKtjOhtVS-6PjSyYY_czCluV0nXMe9pbtmRn8FW2HxFyqlTEGY/s400/P1010008.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mangochi district</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju9acLX9zaiIWgT4c5tPRAvr5PxQVLtcu7d7LUyK2ZePDrUSqCHNmpMjiGT2vGO8hVbSzB8lxrJSGIDCGS4UEGjgVvcGk_9fcyHrzP1cNjwIHP8UGQHlrpmM8LPzyPEnvfK_YXsmLAyPY/s1600/P1010132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju9acLX9zaiIWgT4c5tPRAvr5PxQVLtcu7d7LUyK2ZePDrUSqCHNmpMjiGT2vGO8hVbSzB8lxrJSGIDCGS4UEGjgVvcGk_9fcyHrzP1cNjwIHP8UGQHlrpmM8LPzyPEnvfK_YXsmLAyPY/s400/P1010132.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">traditional hut</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXc9TxZJwZDWhaqTDHS857ciGZL6AozZojJlO5lddBrxL1kpBDX9N38Up_4KKe3k0HUiPODUMV7t2m4BsFKSPcVX0vG57Ok6Mnc2s9YDMs8ydwZXGaMS4T4eXkbFeifJ8B8YC7SmC-xTY/s1600/255207_420276418016469_1892703581_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXc9TxZJwZDWhaqTDHS857ciGZL6AozZojJlO5lddBrxL1kpBDX9N38Up_4KKe3k0HUiPODUMV7t2m4BsFKSPcVX0vG57Ok6Mnc2s9YDMs8ydwZXGaMS4T4eXkbFeifJ8B8YC7SmC-xTY/s400/255207_420276418016469_1892703581_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Malawi</td></tr>
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<br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-89816159562738438082012-05-28T03:54:00.000-07:002012-06-07T04:41:14.327-07:00Khartoum: the LanguageSudan is only the second country I've been to where English isn't the official or dominant language. The first would be Mozambique, which speaks Portuguese. Not only is Portuguese a lot closer to English than Arabic is, it is also very similar to Spanish, which I've studied. So living in an Arabic-speaking country is definitely a completely new experience!<br />
<br />
Even before I arrived, I tried to learn the alphabet a little. After 6 days in Sudan, I can only read 8 different letters, and I don't even know all their forms (Arabic letters have slight changes for beginning a word, middle of a word, and ending a word). I've had more success learning Arabic numerals, which are easy to practice reading because they are on all license plates with the English equivalent beneath. So I can read all 10 numbers now.<br />
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My vocabulary is probably about 20 words; I can do simple greetings, a few question words, and several numbers. However, quite a few people here do know some English, so at this point, I can get by with little Arabic. But it's the best feeling to manage to communicate my needs to someone who speaks no English, by pointing and using random Arabic words I think might be related. I've had to do this a few times when my <i>amjad</i> driver doesn't know my exact destination, and neither do I.<br />
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There is a surprising amount of English here, though. Many products have an English translation on the back, like my three water bottles here (though I'm displaying the Arabic sides).<br />
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At some point, I'd like to start taking formal Arabic lessons, but I'll wait until I know my schedule better and hear different perspectives about different colleges.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-38828415345521090362012-05-26T10:01:00.000-07:002012-06-08T06:56:21.249-07:00Khartoum: ExpectationsKhartoum is definitely not what I expected. Sure, it's still Africa, but I find few similarities between here and Malawi, or even the rest of Southern Africa that I've been to. As I mentioned before, I was surprised that people here drive on the right side. Here are some other things that surprised me:<br />
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Sudanese Arabs are <b>very dark-skinned</b>. For many, I can't tell the difference between Arabs and Blacks except for their hair texture. I'm still confused about this; I've read that most Sudanese are Arab, but I guess they don't fit my silly stereotype of Arabs. South Sudanese are very distinctive, though, because they are really tall and really dark-skinned, and I've seen quite a few.<br />
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Continuing the ethnic theme, there are <b>very few Whites</b> here. Beyond meeting 6 Whites through friends, I've probably only seen about 5 out in the street--and I've been in the street a lot. In Malawi, we called these "whitey-sightings." Whitey-sightings are definitely fewer in the 2-million-plus Khartoum than in my humble 30 thousand home-town of Mangochi!<br />
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I have only seen 2 <b>fuel stations</b>. I only started looking out for them on Friday, but it's a distinct contrast to Malawi, where they feature prominently in cities. I've also not seen any <b>supermarkets</b> or malls, though I'm told there are at least 2 supermarkets. Shops here seem to be either small kiosks, specialized shops (like electronics), or restaurants.<br />
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In the bustling metropolis of Blantyre (Malawi), the sidewalks roll up around 8:00, and in Mangochi, the streets are empty at 6:30. Here, the sun doesn't go down until 7:30, and people are up and about for hours later. I suppose it never completely quiets down, but I'd guess it's mostly quiet by 1 am. Not only are people <b>out late</b>, shops are still open and you can still catch public transport after midnight!<br />
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The <b>toilets</b> here are somewhat dirtier than Malawi, and all are squatties, even in nice places! But the worst part is that they don't have toilet paper, because Muslims wash with water. Toilet paper has become a precious commodity to me, and I have to take it with me everywhere.<br />
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There are many things I love about Khartoum, some of which I've mentioned in previous posts: the public transport, friendliness of Sudanese, AC in my bedroom, later sunset, and the big city feel. I also like the prices--some things, for sure, are expensive, like transport (much more than in Malawi), but other things are really cheap (in my estimation), like cellphone credit, Internet, and electricity. Food is comparable to prices in Malawi, I think, which is expensive compared to the US.<br />
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I also love the generosity. I've already learned so much about what real generosity is: it doesn't say "Do I have enough for myself? Then I can give whatever I have extra." It's absolutely refreshing to stop being selfish and thinking of myself first. I've always wondered, how much do I take away from saving to give? And this experience has added valuable thoughts on the subject.<br />
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Of course, there are also things I need to adjust to (that's polite for "I don't really like it"), but as you'll see, they're all minor.<br />
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<b>Feeling stuffed</b>. I'm used to cleaning my plate. But when someone else fills your plate, it's impossible to eat everything. So I'm trying to learn the right balance of polite acceptance and knowing my stomach's limits.<br />
<br />
<b>Water Intake</b>. Khartoum is very dry and hot, so I'm constantly reminded to drink lots of water, which I've tried to do. For my first few days, I collected about 3 or 4 water bottles each day, because I refused to throw them out in the street. It's an adjustment to drink so much. Cold water doesn't stay cold for long, so I'm getting used to drinking lukewarm and water so hot it could be coming from the hot water tap!<br />
<br />
<b>Heat</b>. Need I even mention this? Most of the time, the temperature is in the 90s or 100s Fahrenheit. I don't actually mind the heat too much, which is mostly because I psyched myself up for it so much; I was actually prepared for it to be worse and for me to be miserable.<br />
<br />
"<b>Dress code</b>." Of course, the need to cover up exacerbates the heat. Women are covered from ankle to wrist to face. I can't recall seeing any female forearms, and most cover their necks. At the same time, men wear long trousers and many also wear long-sleeved shirts. So this is something that's a little bit annoying because it makes me hotter and I'm stuck wearing the same skirt most days (this is because trousers must be warn with very long shirts, and most of my shirts are normal-length).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH9fnecw3VZ4DTalH_ttCaFoUsYUuLsnE4cZqjRSOdA6xWcT2UYmT-Qr-FPZU4dFh1tG2q7oqqL3DwB1s1v8a5Rw0JawTUreNHSyLWaikNH3D3hkk940d_VgA3zDBtORY5A8gHWMfbrjk/s1600/IMG_1312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH9fnecw3VZ4DTalH_ttCaFoUsYUuLsnE4cZqjRSOdA6xWcT2UYmT-Qr-FPZU4dFh1tG2q7oqqL3DwB1s1v8a5Rw0JawTUreNHSyLWaikNH3D3hkk940d_VgA3zDBtORY5A8gHWMfbrjk/s320/IMG_1312.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">in my Sudanese garb</td></tr>
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On the other hand, women generally look really beautiful in attractively-matched scarves, long-sleeved shirts (often with a "Western" shirt on top), and floor-length skirts.<br />
<br />
<b>Sudanese flat</b>. The flat I'm sharing with Tanya is large, and has AC, a clothes-washer so I really can't complain.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSkpVCGyCirnCn0bEokC0Gy1qys61Hj98fkThmyiS_-EL7mtipPwb2VSXQr2UBw1fhyphenhyphenSaYQffrbuWB5nlIVk2I2W8Bw_woVBKB_H6V6c7zUuQ602aOD6RIUGLrkGcpdufjewGuSdhe07Y/s1600/IMG_1331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSkpVCGyCirnCn0bEokC0Gy1qys61Hj98fkThmyiS_-EL7mtipPwb2VSXQr2UBw1fhyphenhyphenSaYQffrbuWB5nlIVk2I2W8Bw_woVBKB_H6V6c7zUuQ602aOD6RIUGLrkGcpdufjewGuSdhe07Y/s640/IMG_1331.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our flat is on the third floor of this building</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZxBcx4fzXUsheOCwXM5uZLvsEEN3Fm4Q1PF4a7I1q0kQocqno_yklwU746ije595h3xqso_6YQkWsQHI-kKzhuUTqwUqTiS7ubBXCgeZFliCk1FwCgTNqF6-m1tOAgpRU8wsrZlEXcuI/s1600/IMG_1288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZxBcx4fzXUsheOCwXM5uZLvsEEN3Fm4Q1PF4a7I1q0kQocqno_yklwU746ije595h3xqso_6YQkWsQHI-kKzhuUTqwUqTiS7ubBXCgeZFliCk1FwCgTNqF6-m1tOAgpRU8wsrZlEXcuI/s400/IMG_1288.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my room</td></tr>
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<br />
But even in Malawi, I lived in a Western house, so it's a bit of an adjustment living in an un-western house. The kitchen is rather un-equipped, but that's always something I can work on! On Friday I put my pictures up on my bedroom wall, and it's really becoming home. I also love that our flat has a huge patio and that we live higher up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEdsqE7NzBarkJWcbvDXK-QeGu8-xHd549nr01Ps6L7P7ChsAM0gT_eTzJazGbj_MLyj_iRtudx8Vth3NyHX5ovjxRLF5GSIYcPOsJPcjDLq0bo_8DC6QH6I7ff1FLkIo4CWYN0-nsfuw/s1600/IMG_1336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEdsqE7NzBarkJWcbvDXK-QeGu8-xHd549nr01Ps6L7P7ChsAM0gT_eTzJazGbj_MLyj_iRtudx8Vth3NyHX5ovjxRLF5GSIYcPOsJPcjDLq0bo_8DC6QH6I7ff1FLkIo4CWYN0-nsfuw/s400/IMG_1336.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">view from our patio</td></tr>
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Last but not least, I need to adjust to the discrimination against my dear toilet paper and learn to take it everywhere with me :)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-6925533570823634272012-05-26T08:24:00.000-07:002012-06-08T06:24:05.601-07:00Khartoum: the PeopleSudan is the place to come if you want to experience generosity. You will be blown away. In my first three days, I was told I would shame people if I paid for my food or my transport. So if I was ever with someone, I was not allowed to pay. I'll have to see if I'll be allowed to pay after today!<div>
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<div>
I can't really say the same thing about <i>amjad</i> (minibus taxi) drivers. If they know you are American and don't speak Arabic, they'll probably try to give you a higher price. But my <i>amjad</i> driver today thought I was Sudanese! Others have said I could pass for an Egyptian or Syrian--what do you know!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I've met so many lovely people. I've been told many times "tell me if you ever need anything." I am so blessed to have an incredible boss, Dr. Hala. I haven't spent much time with her; but everyone has lots of good things to say about her. She seems very responsible, very passionate about her job (promoting English learning), and very caring for her employees. She doesn't want us to have to work too much or take on tasks we can't manage. She started the English Language Institute (ELI) just last year. Though it's under the University of Khartoum (UofK), it is self-sufficient and receives no money from the government, earning enough through "commercial teaching" to sponsor students and staff to take English courses for just 20 pounds ($4), as I understand.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
When we visited a cellphone shop, the owner asked me what I wanted to drink and then went out to buy water for me. Then he offered to trade cellphones with me; I could have one of his brand-new phones for my old simple Nokia scratched-up cellphone. This was partly because of his relationship with Rami (who owns part of the cellphone shop, and who was with me that day). A new cellphone?! Wow. All I can say is, try to find somewhere that can beat Sudanese hospitality and generosity!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Later in the same day, Rami took me to his grandfather and uncle's house. Most of the family (several adults and at least five young children) did not speak much English, but they kindly served me a huge meal. I thought it was for Rami and I to share (a big plate with rice and Chinese greens; a salad with greens, red beet, tomatoes, etc; and two large buns), but it was just for me. When I'd finished the rice and greens (lovely to eat something so delicious and so Malawian-like!), they brought out lots of beautiful juicy oranges and bananas. I had to say I couldn't remember the last time I'd had such nice ripe oranges (2006?). Of course, I couldn't eat everything, but they were very hospitable. The little boys also practiced their English, asking "how old are you?" and "where are you from?" I've chosen to say I'm from Malawi when I'm asked; after all, I've lived there for the majority of my life. Rami's cousin was confused by my scarf over my hair: "Do you know about God?"</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-68172914582315483262012-05-26T07:44:00.000-07:002012-06-08T06:49:52.365-07:00Khartoum: TransportBy the time I had been in Khartoum for 24 hours, I'd already experienced 4 out of the 5 most common forms of public transport, and most of them I'd taken two or three times. The best form of transport, I've been told, is <i>amjad</i>. Amjad is a mini- minibus (about the length of a large sedan) with two rows in the back. However, it is used like a taxi, with only one set of passengers, and the drivers take you straight to your destination.<br />
<br />
I've also taken a minibus like the ones in Malawi with 3 or 4 rows. These are called <i>havla </i>or <i>hise, </i>and they follow routes and pick up multiple passengers. The bigger buses (like inter-city buses) are just called <i>bas, </i>and they are nice because they are often air-conditioned. Lastly, I've taken a raksha, which is like a rickshaw.<br />
<br />
The only other transport that I know of is a taxi. Taxis are little yellow sedans, but I've been told they are more expensive and less comfortable than<i> amjad</i> (which doesn't make sense to me because they are smaller).<br />
<br />
I was shocked on my first night to discover that Sudanese drive on the right side of the road. Where does this come from? French influence??? It took me awhile to notice, too. You'd think it might have seemed strange to me that the amjad we took from the airport had it's passenger door on the right, and the driver sat on the left; or that we then drove for 20 minutes on the right side of the road. But I didn't notice until my second ride (this time on havla), when I saw another havla with a woman in the "driver's seat," and thought it was strange to have a woman driver. Then I looked around and realized we were driving on the right side.<br />
<br />
There are also lots and lots of cars here.<br />
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Most of the main streets have quite a few lanes, and they are filled with cars, but not so much that the traffic is bad. It gives me the feeling that this is a prosperous city where most people have jobs and can afford transport, even if the distance is walkable.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5949243072257474005.post-89370976495783414202012-05-26T06:33:00.001-07:002012-06-08T06:51:03.901-07:00Khartoum: the City and WeatherInstead of writing a chronological account of my first few days, I thought I'd write more topically. As I said, Khartoum felt pretty hot those first moments, but it's the kind of heat that is just extra warm, not piercing hot. That's the only way I can think to describe it. I find that the heat is a lot more manageable than I'd expected. I'm blessed to have a powerful ceiling fan and air conditioning in my bedroom, which helps my heat-sensitive laptop to function. Thursday night, my housemate Tanya and I ran out of electricity units, so we didn't have electricity until she went to buy some in the morning. But, <i>Elhamdu li-Allah</i> (praise to God), I was able to sleep fine that whole night, and only woke up once. Friday I experienced my first sandstorm. Everything went hazy and dust filled the air, and I was grateful for my scarf to keep most of the dirt off my face, but my clothes were pretty dusty by the time I got home.<br />
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The best way I can describe the city is to say that it's like Limbe (Malawi) with a mixture of Blantyre City Centre and Blantyre market (also Malawi) times 10, because it's so much bigger. Most of the city that I've seen is just streets and streets of little shops. To me, the city centre doesn't seem to end; it's like Limbe 10 times bigger. For the most part, buildings look old (I think it's because of the dust), so it was neat to pass "Gaddafi's Egg," the beautiful hotel built by the Libyans and several other large pretty buildings. The roads are really nice, and many of them are 3 or 4 lane, one way (as in 6 or 8 lanes across). Most of them are paved, and I've noticed very few potholes.<br />
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The first time I saw the Nile from the ground was yesterday, Friday, when I went to Omdurman, across the White Nile from Khartoum, and Bahri, across the Blue Nile from Khartoum.<br />
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It was also the first time I saw vegetation. I'm not sure, but there appears to be a lot more vegetation in Bahri and even Omdurman than in Khartoum. And we drove to Tutti Island, which is basically a farming area between the three cities. From there we got a ferry, but the sandstorm had started and dusk had fallen so it was pretty hard to see. In the background of this picture, you can faintly see Gaddafi's Egg (it's egg-shaped).<br />
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I'm finally jumping on the bandwagon and creating a blog. I'm not really sure how I feel about it yet.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0